Easy Patternmaking Guide for Beginners

Patternmaking is the process of creating templates or patterns that are used as a guide for cutting and sewing fabric pieces together to create a garment. It is an essential skill in fashion design as it allows designers to bring their ideas to life and create garments that fit well and flatter the body. Patternmaking involves taking accurate body measurements, drafting basic patterns, creating variations, adding darts and seams, making adjustments for fit, and designing patterns for different fabrics.

The importance of patternmaking in fashion design cannot be overstated. A well-drafted pattern ensures that a garment fits properly and hangs correctly on the body. It is the foundation of any garment and serves as a blueprint for construction. Without accurate patterns, even the most beautifully designed garment will not look good when worn.

The history of patternmaking can be traced back to ancient civilizations such as Egypt and Mesopotamia, where garments were made by draping fabric directly on the body. Over time, patternmaking techniques evolved and became more sophisticated. In the 19th century, the invention of the sewing machine revolutionized the fashion industry and led to the development of standardized patternmaking techniques. Today, patternmaking is a combination of traditional methods and modern technology, with computer-aided design (CAD) software being widely used in the industry.

Key Takeaways

• Patternmaking is the process of creating a blueprint for a garment.
• Essential tools for patternmaking include a ruler, French curve, and pattern paper.
• Understanding body measurements is crucial for creating a well-fitting garment.
• Basic bodice and skirt patterns can be drafted using simple measurements and calculations.
• Variations of basic patterns can be created by adding or subtracting length, width, or shape.

Tools and Materials Needed for Patternmaking

To create patterns, you will need a few essential tools and materials. These include:

1. Pattern paper: This is a large roll of paper that is used to draft patterns. It is available in various weights and can be purchased at most art supply stores.

2. Rulers: A set of rulers is necessary for measuring and drawing straight lines. A clear plastic ruler with both metric and imperial measurements is recommended.

3. French curve: This tool is used to draw smooth curves and is essential for creating armholes, necklines, and other curved areas.

4. Tape measure: A flexible tape measure is used to take body measurements accurately.

5. Tracing wheel: This tool is used to transfer pattern markings onto fabric.

6. Pins and weights: Pins are used to hold pattern pieces in place while cutting, and weights are used to keep the pattern paper from shifting.

7. Scissors: A good pair of fabric scissors is essential for cutting out pattern pieces.

8. Marking tools: These include tailor’s chalk, disappearing ink pens, and tracing paper for transferring pattern markings onto fabric.

When choosing tools and materials for patternmaking, it is important to consider quality and durability. Invest in good-quality tools that will last a long time and produce accurate results. Look for tools that are comfortable to use and have clear markings for easy measurement.

Understanding Body Measurements

Accurate body measurements are crucial for creating well-fitting garments. Taking precise measurements ensures that the patterns you create will fit the intended wearer correctly. Here are some tips for taking body measurements:

1. Use a flexible tape measure: A flexible tape measure is essential for accurately measuring the body. It should be snug but not tight against the skin.

2. Measure over lightweight clothing: When taking body measurements, it is best to have the person wearing lightweight clothing that does not add bulk or distort their natural shape.

3. Take multiple measurements: To ensure accuracy, it is recommended to take multiple measurements of each area, especially if there are significant differences between the left and right sides of the body.

4. Keep the tape measure parallel to the floor: When measuring the bust, waist, and hips, make sure the tape measure is parallel to the floor to avoid skewed measurements.

Common mistakes in taking body measurements include pulling the tape measure too tight, measuring over bulky clothing, and not taking into account any changes in posture or weight fluctuations. It is important to be consistent in your measuring technique and to double-check measurements for accuracy.

Drafting Basic Bodice and Skirt Patterns

Metrics	Values
Number of students enrolled	50
Number of students completed the course	45
Course duration	6 weeks
Number of hours per week	3
Course difficulty level	Intermediate
Number of assignments	4
Number of quizzes	2
Passing grade	70%

Drafting a basic bodice pattern is the first step in creating a well-fitting garment. Here is a step-by-step guide to drafting a basic bodice pattern:

1. Take accurate body measurements: Measure the bust, waist, and hip circumference, as well as the back width, shoulder width, and armhole depth.

2. Draw a rectangle: On your pattern paper, draw a rectangle that is the width of the bust measurement plus ease allowance and the length from the shoulder to the desired hemline.

3. Divide the rectangle into sections: Divide the rectangle into four equal sections vertically. These sections will represent the front and back bodice pieces.

4. Mark key points: Mark the bust point, waistline, and hip line on both the front and back sections.

5. Create the armhole curve: Using a French curve, draw a smooth curve from the shoulder point to the armhole point on both the front and back sections.

6. Create the neckline curve: Using a French curve, draw a smooth curve from the shoulder point to the neckline point on both the front and back sections.

7. Add seam allowances: Add seam allowances to all edges of the pattern pieces.

To draft a basic skirt pattern, follow these steps:

1. Take accurate body measurements: Measure the waist and hip circumference, as well as the desired skirt length.

2. Draw a rectangle: On your pattern paper, draw a rectangle that is twice the hip measurement plus ease allowance and the desired skirt length.

3. Divide the rectangle into sections: Divide the rectangle into two equal sections vertically. These sections will represent the front and back skirt pieces.

4. Mark key points: Mark the waistline and hip line on both the front and back sections.

5. Create the side seam curve: Using a French curve, draw a smooth curve from the waistline to the hip line on both the front and back sections.

6. Add seam allowances: Add seam allowances to all edges of the pattern pieces.

When drafting basic patterns, it is important to achieve accurate measurements and proportions. Take your time and double-check your measurements and calculations. Use a ruler and French curve to create smooth and precise lines. Remember to add seam allowances to all edges of the pattern pieces to allow for sewing.

Creating Variations of Basic Patterns

Once you have mastered the art of drafting basic patterns, you can start creating variations to suit different styles and designs. Here are some tips for creating different styles using basic patterns:

1. Adding or removing length: To create a shorter or longer garment, simply add or remove length from the pattern pieces. For example, to create a cropped top from a basic bodice pattern, measure the desired length from the waistline and mark it on the pattern piece.

2. Adding or removing width: To create a more fitted or relaxed garment, add or remove width from the pattern pieces. For example, to create a fitted skirt from a basic skirt pattern, measure the desired width at the waistline and hip line and taper the side seams accordingly.

3. Adding or removing volume: To create a garment with more or less volume, add or remove fullness from the pattern pieces. For example, to create a flared skirt from a basic skirt pattern, add fullness at the hemline by widening the side seams.

Examples of variations of basic patterns include adding sleeves to a basic bodice pattern, adding pleats or gathers to a basic skirt pattern, or adding a collar to a basic neckline. The possibilities are endless, and it is up to your creativity and imagination to create unique designs using basic patterns as a starting point.

Adding Darts and Seams to Patterns

Darts and seams are essential elements in patternmaking as they help shape the garment and create a better fit. Here is a step-by-step guide to adding darts and seams to patterns:

1. Mark the dart points: Darts are used to shape the fabric around curves such as the bust, waist, and hips. To mark the dart points, measure the distance from the bust point, waistline, or hip line to the desired dart point and mark it on the pattern piece.

2. Draw the dart legs: To create the dart legs, draw two lines from the dart point to the edge of the pattern piece. The length of the dart legs will depend on the desired depth of the dart.

3. Fold and pin the dart: Fold along one of the dart legs, aligning it with the other dart leg. Pin in place to secure.

4. Sew the dart: Sew along the folded edge of the dart, tapering to a point at the dart point. Backstitch at both ends to secure.

5. Press the dart: Press the dart towards the center or side seam, depending on the garment design.

Seams are used to join fabric pieces together. Here is a step-by-step guide to adding seams to patterns:

1. Mark seam allowances: Add seam allowances to all edges of the pattern pieces. The standard seam allowance is 5/8 inch (1.5 cm), but this can be adjusted depending on personal preference or specific garment construction techniques.

2. Align pattern pieces: When sewing seams, align pattern pieces with right sides together and pin in place.

3. Sew the seam: Sew along the marked seam allowance, backstitching at both ends to secure.

4. Finish raw edges: After sewing a seam, finish raw edges by either serging, zigzag stitching, or using bias binding.

When adding darts and seams to patterns, it is important to achieve a smooth and professional finish. Take your time when sewing darts to ensure accuracy and precision. Press darts and seams flat to create a clean and polished look. Use the appropriate finishing technique for raw edges to prevent fraying and ensure durability.

Making Adjustments for Fit

Achieving a perfect fit is the ultimate goal in patternmaking. However, it is common for garments to require adjustments to fit different body types or to address fit issues. Here are some common fit issues and how to fix them:

1. Tightness or looseness in the bust: If a garment is too tight or too loose in the bust area, you can make adjustments by adding or removing width at the bust point. To add width, slash the pattern piece from the bust point to the side seam and spread it open. To remove width, slash the pattern piece from the bust point to the side seam and overlap it.

2. Tightness or looseness in the waist: If a garment is too tight or too loose in the waist area, you can make adjustments by adding or removing width at the waistline. To add width, slash the pattern piece from the waistline to the side seam and spread it open. To remove width, slash the pattern piece from the waistline to the side seam and overlap it.

3. Length issues: If a garment is too long or too short, you can make adjustments by adding or removing length at the hemline. To add length, slash the pattern piece horizontally and spread it open. To remove length, slash the pattern piece horizontally and overlap it.

When making adjustments for fit, it is important to work on a muslin or toile first before cutting into your fashion fabric. A muslin is a test garment made from inexpensive fabric that allows you to make adjustments without wasting expensive materials. Fit issues can be complex, so it is recommended to seek guidance from experienced patternmakers or take a patternmaking course to learn advanced fitting techniques.

Creating Patterns for Sleeves and Collars

Sleeves and collars are important design elements that can greatly enhance the overall look of a garment. Here is a step-by-step guide to drafting a sleeve pattern:

1. Take accurate body measurements: Measure the arm circumference, arm length, and desired sleeve length.

2. Draw a rectangle: On your pattern paper, draw a rectangle that is the width of the arm circumference plus ease allowance and the length from the shoulder to the desired sleeve length.

3. Divide the rectangle into sections: Divide the rectangle into two equal sections vertically. These sections will represent the front and back sleeve pieces.

4. Mark key points: Mark the shoulder point, underarm point, and elbow point on both the front and back sections.

5. Create the sleeve cap curve: Using a French curve, draw a smooth curve from the shoulder point to the underarm point on both the front and back sections.

6. Add seam allowances: Add seam allowances to all edges of the pattern pieces.

To draft a collar pattern, follow these steps:

1. Take accurate body measurements: Measure the neckline circumference and desired collar height.

2. Draw a rectangle: On your pattern paper, draw a rectangle that is twice the neckline measurement plus ease allowance and the desired collar height.

3. Divide the rectangle into sections: Divide the rectangle into two equal sections vertically. These sections will represent the front and back collar pieces.

4. Mark key points: Mark the center back point, shoulder point, and center front point on both the front and back sections.

5. Create the collar curve: Using a French curve, draw a smooth curve from the center back point to the shoulder point on both the front and back sections.

6. Add seam allowances: Add seam allowances to all edges of the pattern pieces.

When drafting sleeve and collar patterns, it is important to achieve a professional finish. Use a ruler and French curve to create smooth and precise lines. Add seam allowances to all edges of the pattern pieces to allow for sewing. Test the fit of the sleeve or collar pattern on a muslin or toile before cutting into your fashion fabric.

Designing Patterns for Different Fabrics

Different fabrics have different characteristics and behaviors, so it is important to choose the right fabric for your design and make adjustments to the pattern accordingly. Here are some tips for designing patterns for different fabrics:

1. Consider fabric drape: The drape of a fabric refers to how it hangs or falls when made into a garment. Light and fluid fabrics such as silk or chiffon require patterns with more ease and less structure, while stiffer fabrics such as denim or wool require patterns with less ease and more structure.

2. Adjust ease allowance: Ease allowance refers to the amount of extra room added to a pattern to allow for movement and comfort. For stretchy fabrics such as jersey or spandex, less ease is needed as the fabric will stretch to fit the body. For non-stretchy fabrics such as cotton or linen, more ease is needed to allow for movement.

3. Consider fabric weight: The weight of a fabric affects how it drapes and how it behaves when sewn. Lighter weight fabrics require less structure in the pattern, while heavier weight fabrics require more structure.

4. Test on a muslin or toile: Before cutting into your fashion fabric, it is recommended to test the fit and construction of your garment on a muslin or toile. This allows you to make any necessary adjustments to the pattern before committing to the final fabric. A muslin is typically made from inexpensive cotton fabric that closely resembles the weight and drape of your fashion fabric. By sewing a mock-up of your garment, you can assess the fit, check for any design flaws, and make alterations as needed. This step is crucial in ensuring that your final garment will have the desired fit and look.

If you’re just starting out in the world of patternmaking, you may find this article on the organization journey by Structured Solutions to be incredibly helpful. It provides valuable insights and tips on how to effectively organize your patternmaking materials and workspace for maximum efficiency. Additionally, if you’re interested in exploring the world of haute couture, Structured Solutions also offers a fascinating article that delves into the intricate art of creating high-fashion garments. And if you’re looking to stock up on essential tools for pattern drafting, their article on the essential tools of pattern drafting supply is a must-read. Check out these informative articles to enhance your patternmaking skills and knowledge!

FAQs

What is patternmaking?

Patternmaking is the process of creating a blueprint or template for a garment or piece of clothing. It involves taking measurements, drafting a pattern, and making adjustments to ensure a proper fit.

Who can learn patternmaking?

Anyone can learn patternmaking, regardless of their skill level or background. However, it does require patience, attention to detail, and a willingness to learn.

What tools are needed for patternmaking?

Some of the basic tools needed for patternmaking include a measuring tape, ruler, French curve, pattern paper, scissors, and a pencil. More advanced tools may include a dress form, tracing wheel, and a rotary cutter.

What are the basic steps in patternmaking?

The basic steps in patternmaking include taking accurate measurements, drafting a pattern on paper, making adjustments for fit, and creating a final pattern. It is important to test the pattern by making a muslin or mock-up before cutting into expensive fabric.

What are some common patternmaking techniques?

Some common patternmaking techniques include grading (creating multiple sizes of a pattern), draping (creating a pattern by draping fabric on a dress form), and flat patternmaking (creating a pattern on paper using measurements and calculations).

What are some tips for beginners in patternmaking?

Some tips for beginners in patternmaking include starting with simple projects, practicing accuracy in measurements and cutting, and seeking out resources such as books, online tutorials, and classes. It is also important to be patient and persistent in the learning process.